Mountain Gorillas at last

This morning we made our way into the Mgahinga National Park to being our gorilla tracking. The gorillas were expected to be about halfway up Mount Muhuvura. Mgahinga is one of four national parks which comprises the “Virunga Massif” range: Mgahinga and Bwindi in Uganda, Parc des Virungas in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, and Parc National des Volcans in Rwanda. There are about 8 families of gorillas living throughout the three countries. One family of nine gorillas lives at Mgahinga. There are 3 silver backs (adult males), two black backs (adolescent males), two females, and two infants. One infant was caught with a snare meant for antelope, and the vets have still been unsuccessful at tranquilizing both it and its mother in order to remove it. The silverback had taken away the infant once the mother had been darted last week. The baby is still alive, but she is not eating well. The vets will be attempting to remove it again tomorrow or the next day.

Our path to the gorillas was challenging. Not only was the climb through the forest incredibly steep, for us non-hikers anyway, but once we made it to the bamboo zone where the gorillas usually live, we had only buffalo trails and gorilla tracks to follow. We had two experienced trackers with AK47s, and Irene, our guide, to escort us. Within about two or three hours, we found them. We managed to see 8 of the 9 gorillas, all but one silverback.  The first ones spotted were a black back, a mother, and the infant with the snare. The black back weighed close to 300 lbs. His size was intimidating. A silverback appeared from the trees in front of his family to protect them from the humans. Nathan was clearly nervous. This silverback was 400lbs of muscle. His torso might have been 4 ft high, each shoulder was the size of two basketballs making him close to 3 ft wide, and with limbs extended he is close to 7ft high.

A black back climbing a hypericum tree

We were warned by the guide that the silverbacks like to “play” with the humans to see if they will run from them or stand their ground. Suddenly, the silverback, in all his size and on all fours, rushed around the trees toward us stopping only 6 or 7 meters away. Nathan might have bolted down the mountain if we hadn’t hike up so far! Despite our somewhat eventless reaction, the silverback still herded his family away from us. We caught up with a black back at a hypericum tree. He climbed it, breaking the necessary branches single-handedly, and treated us to a viewing of his snacking on fresh leaves.

Just before leaving, out came a second silverback with his “wife”, brother, and baby. The baby was so excited to see us. She wanted to come and play with us but her teenage brother kept a close eye on her, roping her in when she got too close. She came to within just one or two meters of us!

Daddy the silverback!

Brother and baby...

She comes in for a closer look!

After one hour, we had to leave the gorillas in peace, but we couldn’t have had better viewing! The descent was exhausting on our already tired legs, but the trek was worth it! Even the 500$ per person fee (which is expected to increase to 750$ or 1000$ dollars by next year) was worth it!

We found ourselves a new hotel for the same price, and yet with rooms miles above in quality. We are planning to hike again tomorrow at the base of Mount Gahinga to track the rare golden monkeys and visit caves once inhabited by the local Batwa (pygmy) population. Friday we are off to Rwanda.  For now, we are going for a well-deserved and needed sleep.

Hope everyone at home is well,

Maryse and Nathan